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www.PineFlooring.CA RED PINE FLOOR > Buyer Beware



Buyer Beware

“No education comes without effort and frustration
... not of the 'knowing' but, of the grappling with conflicting information.”


What you may not want to buy  ... and other conflicting information, you may not want to know about?


These are educational subject items on this page: (below)

Price is King     Lumber Yard Pine     Prefinished Pine     White Pine and Yellow Pine

Wide Plank Pine over 12”     River “Reclaimed”: Waterlog, Deadheads, Beachcomber Pine

Barn Board Pine     Wall Board 'Pine'     Imported Woods     Hardwood     Engineered Wood



Experience “The JOY of a Job Well Done”.

Do-it-Yourself: Roger in Ayr, Ontario



Why RED Pine?


“New Knotty Pine Flooring enhances classic decor styles, from Antiques to Stainless.”



is approximately three times (~3X) more dense, harder and durable than any other Pine(s) ... ideal for

winterized and unwinterized buildings, as well as, above and below grade Flooring Installations! “


Red Pine has reddish knotts and a more rhythmic grain than White Pine but, more importantly, the Janka Hardness Rating Scale (J) For Wood Flooring Species. Northern Ontario Red Pine is approximately three (~3X) times more dense and harder than Northern or Eastern White Pine(s) which has a rating of ~380 (J).

If you desire Investment Grade Flooring that appreciates in value and is both beautiful and livable, you may be well advised — in my biased and knowledgeable opinion — to be aware of products I do NOT recommend…


Price is King” ... When “Price-is-King”, you may be shopping for short-term gain ... be cautious about Wide Plank Flooring material (of any kind) that is of mixed species and/or inconsistent widths. Substandard Grades, Air Dried but, not also Kiln-Dried, V-Joint (top edges), and kept in 'unpredictable storage', etc. as these are just a few items “you will eventually pay for” with regret.

Substandard materials will cause “a problem Flooring” in an otherwise valuable property ... 'substandard' products are sold everywhere by 'trusted' Commodity-Oriented Resellers.  For example, walk into a “Big Box” store and locate “Canada Grade “A”-Select 2”X4” Spruce lumber and 'experience' disappointment and disbelief that such substandard product can be STAMPED with a “Mill Rating” of Canada: Grade “A”-Select. It is sloppiness in sourcing and retailing, plain and simple.  Price is King!


Now, try buying Northern Ontario Wide Plank Red Pine from these same Commodity-Oriented Retainers and you will have to buy 1,000 lf. at a time (if they can source it) — regardless of the quality — even if are short one board to complete your project, another 1,000 lf. is your only option.


My internationally recognized “EXPORT QUALITY” Northern Ontario Wide Plank Red Pine beats them all, 'hands-down' on quality and consistency. I also offer increasing levels of Value-Added Products in my  MILL RUN, MERCHANT PLUS, SELECT and PREMIUM Grades to suite your particular requirements.


Lumber Yard Pine” .... Common lumber retailers know that “Price is King” ... lumber sold by them for Flooring is just another commodity, period.  Flooring lumber is not treated as a climate-sensitive building component and is generally sold Air Dried to ~ 14% and stored in damp, cold outdoor sheds. Or worse, supposedly Kiln-Dried to 6% — which is too dry and prone to splitting during installation — will expand abnormally ... the Flooring will become unstable and rise — buckling — in our climate.


6% humidity is only used for furniture components and even then, only for 'floating' door inset panels. In addition, retailers are not at all knowledgeable when it comes to understanding the vast differences between Eastern White Pine Flooring, New Brunswick Red Pine and Northern Ontario Red Pine Flooring product.


Northern Ontario Wide Plank is the unique product of its harsh environment ... at twenty-two (22) growth rings per inch (slow growth) of thickness, it is hardy and durable ... retailers, generally, buy on price alone and do not care to know the origin of the wood or the difference in quality. Shopping for Sustainable Forest Growth and Harvesting Consistency is not of any consideration because Consumer-Oriented Resellers only know one thing: Price is King.


Prefinished Pine — No true Wide Plank (over 5”) is ever prefinished because finishing one side of any wide lumber will cause cupping. In addition, there is no such thing as a perfectly level Sub Flooring so, Wide Plank requires installation, sanding and finishing on-site to obtain a sealed Flooring.


Prefinished Pine 2 — prefinished wood Flooring (usually 2” to 4” wide) of any species or quality — is not recommended when you live with “kids and dogs” as prefinished wood Flooring topcoats are “micro sprayed” soooo-very-thinly, that it dries instantly under UV-Light ... Topcoats may be sprayed a dozen or more times but it is none-the-less “Thin Skinned” compared to my Onsite Double (2X) FloodCoats ... prefinished Flooring scratches and scuffs easily and it overexposes scratches and dents. Prefinished Wide Plank is usually only available in White Pine in Four (4”) inch widths with a dirt-catching V-groove along the top-sides of each board to help “compensate” for uneven Sub Flooring. I offer Solid-Face (no V-groove) Wide Plank for Six (6”), Eight (8”), Ten (10”) and Twelve (12”) Wide Plank Red Pine and On-Site Finishing. Lastly, all prefinished wood Flooring is high-maintenance and difficult, if not impossible, to repair or have refinished.


Prefinished Pine 3 — prefinished wood Flooring of any species or quality — is not recommended because Prefinished Woods can not be sanded 'level' — board-to-board — when there is slight but, ever-present, unevenness in all Sub Flooring. The unevenness in the Sub Flooring will 'float' to the surface ... your Prefinished Flooring will look 'wrinkled' in daylight and feel uneven when you walk over it ... I hasten to add that Prefinished wood has a “V-Groove” on the top edge surface — between the boards — in an effort to 'compensate' for uneven Sub Flooring but, the “V-Groove” is a nuisance to clean whether you sweep or vacuum. (NOTE:  Retailers will deny that their 'Micro-Groove' is a nuisance ... but, they will not volunteer to wipe up spilt milk or baby food ... try it.)  


Prefinished Pine 4 — prefinished wood Flooring of any species or quality — is not recommended because it is 'impossible' to install without scuffing, scratching or denting during the installation process ... try it.


Prefinished Pine 5 — prefinished is not always “what you think it is” … some sly suppliers spray or BrushCoat a single “TopCoat Finish” and claim a prefinished product.


Traditional White Pine(s) and Yellow Pine(s) are not recommended because they are soft (even when professionally finished using 'Diamond-Tough' Resin FloodCoats).


Wide Plank Pine over twelve inches (12”+) inches in width is not recommended because it is not available in RED ... it is only available in common pines which, as stated, are too soft for active lifestyles.


River “Reclaimed”: Waterlogged, Deadheads, Beachcomber 'Pine' — reclaimed pine Flooring and, so-called, Antique Pine Flooring is not recommended because it is not 'what it claims to be ... it is a mix of species that include the softer White Pine, as well as, 'lost woods' and 'cast-offs' that are not necessarily 'Pine' and are not compatible in quality and hardness. River “Reclaimed” companies claim ~ 6% humidity (no shrinkage) which is misleading because wood will naturally acclimatizes itself to its environment which is (for wood) ~ 8-10 humidity under normal circumstances.  Being too dry, Waterlogged Lumber is “Brittle Wood' (prone to splitting and chaffing)... and 'inflexible' — where flexibility is absolutely necessary — firstly, for proper installations and secondly, to accommodate seasonal changes in humidity and heat.

Brittle Wood has its place” as baseboards, window frames and in furniture building but, as Wide Plank Flooring, it is infamous for cracking, blistering (chaffing) and splintering. Lastly, Brittle Wood can not be used below grade or in unwinterized buildings. Ask about dimensional widths and lengths: you may get “caught” with narrow 2” to 3” widths and lengths of 1', 2' and 3'! If you ask for 6” or 8” wide you will be 'disparaged' or willing ~ $ 10.00+ (sf.) costly delivery and, of course, HST, unfinished and uninstalled.




People who are Ecologically Conscious or, simply, dislike myths and half-truths may develop a 'pet peeve' about Waterlog “Reclaimed” Wood – as I have – simply because it is not the 'honest' eco-friendly product it is claimed to be. Waterlog is recovered through diving operations in sensitive environmental areas. Other 'waterlog' is not from the water at all ... it is obtained from abandoned building sites and mixed in under the 'Historic Woods' marketing banner.


The “Eco-Friendly” Floor?


Some companies go so far as to claim their “Reclaimed” product is 'Green' because they do not cut down a living tree but, that does not eliminate their Environmental Footprint. River “Reclaimed” entails dragging the river bottom, spiking, chaining and winching to 'suck' logs out of the depths of mud and up to the water surface. Logs are towed atop open water and skidded through 'wilderness' shorelines to makeshift truck loading depots. It is a matter of public record that such 'harvesting' infuriates cottagers and waterfront residents alike ... especially, when it is done — legally — on their pristine doorsteps. In my opinion, Waterlogs and Deadheads have a rightful place exactly where they lay ... sustaining the eco-system. Old fashioned logic dictates that powerboats, draglines and skidding chains do not enhance or 'clean-up' our environment.


Barn Board 'Pine', is not recommended because it is not usually milled by professional mills and it seldom meets “building code” ... use it for decor only after applying a 'fire-retardant' (as may be required to meet local building code and insurance requirements) for indoor or outdoor wall applications”.


Wall & Ceiling Board 'Pine', is not recommended for Flooring because it is not milled, graded or kilned for Flooring. Wallboard and Ceiling 'paneling' is easily identified by its thin 5/8” thickness and 1/16” bevel cut into the Top-Side edge of every board to form a “V-Groove” upon installation. The “V-Groove” allows ease of installation on 'uneven' walls and offers a 'rustic' feel in a room. Secondly, and tragically, Unfinished Wall & Ceiling Board with a 1/16” bevel (used as Flooring) can not be Professionally sanded, stained or TopCoat FloodCoat Finished. Lastly, where the boards do not have Bottom-Side Anti-Cup Grooves, the boards must not be 'reversed/turned over' to create a flat surface thus 'eliminating' the “V-Groove”. Using wallboard for Flooring will demand a costly replacement of the Flooring — in the near future — with the correct materials, which should have been used, by an informed Client, in the first place.


Imported Woods, and particularly, Asian, Russian and South American Flooring is high risk for North American consumers. These woods appeal to buyers based on “Bamboozle” ... 'exclusivity' and 'eco-friendly' but, these products are not 'recognized', 'rated' or 'regulated' by any North American (hardwood or softwood) Non-Partisan Party ... when an imported wood Flooring becomes a 'problem Flooring' consumers seem to have little effective legal recourse. According to lawyers who represent 'disgruntled' clients and contact me for 'help'. I have been told, it is a big problem.


Hardwood These are the facts you must know when buying Wide Plank Red Pine Flooring — in comparison to any hardwood Flooring — as follows:

1) Hardwood is seldom “real” any more ... it's medium density fibreboard (MDF), so-called “Engineered Wood” or Stripped (laminated) Flooring (chipboard) with a thin veneer top layer ... They are synthetic and all Gas-Off forever!  Strip Hardwood Flooring “ripples” in the sunlight because it warps.


Strip Hardwood Flooring has a 3mm veneer top layer, the base of the 'board' may be 12mm MDF or “Engineered Wood” which denies the hardwood the ability to be refinished. Quality hardwood is solid wood but, it will expose every ding, dent and scratch and may need to be refinished three or four times over its lifetime. That is inconvenient, costly and poor value. That is not the case with my artistically-distressed solid Wide Plank Red Pine Flooring.


2) True, Solid Hardwood is extremely costly to purchase ... when refinishing becomes necessary ... the topcoat must be sanded down to the bare wood so that the grouting (filler between the boards) can be removed and replaced before that kind of Flooring can be refinished ... again, it is inconvenient, time-consuming and costly. That is not the case with my artistically-distressed solid Red Pine Flooring ... there is no grouting involved ... therefore, should you ever choose to refinish a Marreed-Prestman Red Pine Flooring, if ever, only the sheen of the 'Diamond-Finish' need be hand-sanded (in the direction of the grain) prior to refinishing.


3) Most common hardwood is pre-finished with 'umpteen' coats of a NANO (micro-thin spray resin and UVL cured). Each spray-coat is so fine that one could not spray their hair with spray as fine. These coatings are cured within seconds under ultraviolet light (UVL) before going through another instant-coating. (Great for manufacturers, not great for consumers.) All-in-all, ten (10) coats of a UV-cured finish = .006 mil which is only 10% of my multiple on-site  'Diamond-Tough' Resin FloodCoats.


4) True Hardwood Flooring may need to be refinished every ten years — if you are particular — whereas a Marreed-Prestman Flooring may never need doing ... scratches, dings and dents that accumulate over the years simply add to character, beauty and value of this 'Old World' Flooring.


5) “Hardwood” widths are generally ~ 2” to 3” and lengths are usually up to three (3') feet in length when, in fact, ninety (90%) percent of the boxed pieces are much shorter at approximately ~ 12”, 18”, and 24” in length.


Engineered Wood When does a quality title like “Engineered” gain marketable credibility — when Engineered Wood is, in fact, scrap wood — that can not be used for any independent quality use — it is minced wood, glued together to make a “successful” consumer product. That if fine if the consumer is aware of what they are buying but, that is likely not the case. So-called Engineered Woods include particleboard, plywood, oriented strand board, medium density fiberboard, etc. Engineered Wood has its issues — the big one is off-gassing. Usually the adhesives used to bond engineered wood together contain formaldehyde, which is an irritant that can off-gas for years. It can cause your eyes, nose or throat, or all of them, to burn. It can also trigger coughs. Long-term exposure can cause respiratory problems, especially in “below grade” low ventilation environments ... and especially in small children and animals. Be aware if you are going to use MDF (medium density fibreboard) in your project. It can have two to four times as much formaldehyde as other types of engineered wood.


bullet Red Pine Flooring is a natural  product ... it is not a composite, it is not plastic, as such, ~ 1% expansion and contraction of the wood in the annual “breathing” cycle may occur. Additional, expansion and contraction may be “aggravated” by non-related factors* affecting the building prior to, during, or after the installation and finishing processes.

* Clients will allow for standard Curing Times which will include a timeline for the introduction” of furniture and animals in accordance with T&C.

* E.G.: Building Stresses: Misaligned supporting walls, posts or jack posts, water damage, nearby blasting or excavation, snow load, etc.


I hope you are entertained and informed?

Questions, comments and suggestions are appreciated.


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